PlanetRambler.com Rae Lks, 60 Lks, Forester Pass

Overview

Rae Lakes Loop
The Rae Lakes are a remote series of deep blue high alpine lakes in northern Kings Canyon National Park in the Sierra Nevada of central California. Their amorphous island-dotted shapes follow the contours of rocky mounds, peninsula's, marshes, meadows and ponds. Giant granite mountains with colorful names like Painted Lady, Dragon Peak and Fin Dome rise dramatically from their shores, mirrored in calm, crystal clear waters. The unique topography and lush, green terrain are a welcome respite from the rugged alpine surroundings, beckoning the adventurous backcountry enthusiast to stay and explore this watery wilderness playground. The only access is by trail and a two day hike from the nearest trailhead. The John Muir Trail (JMT) passes through the basin from north to south on it's way from Yosemite National Park to Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the 48 contiguous states.

The Rae Lakes Loop is a loosely named 46 mile circuit that climbs and descends two spectacular canyons to the high Rae Lakes basin. There is no "Rae Lakes Loop Trail" per se, the route simply assumes the loop shape of several existing paths. The trip begins at a place called Road's End, the eastern terminus of Hwy. 180 in the north of Kings Canyon National Park. You decide if you want to hike the lasso-shaped loop clockwise on the Woods Creek trail or counter-clockwise on the Bubbs Creek trail. Both directions entail a long climb up spectacular valleys beneath towering granite peaks along energetic streams, and both join the John Muir Trail for the north-south leg to the Rae Lakes basin. There is one high mountain pass to climb, 11,978 foot Glen Pass, at the southern end of the lakes basin.

The trip can be done in four fast days, but planning an extra day or two would allow some additional time to enjoy the area and discover the surrounding terrain. The Rae Lakes Loop is reportedly one of the most popular multi-day hikes in the Sierra so you'll need to plan far in advance to score one of the coveted wilderness permits to hike here.

Sixty Lakes Basin
My hike included an extra day for exploring the adjacent Sixty Lakes Basin, which lies west over a high ridge from Rae Lakes. The only maintained trail to Sixty Lakes Basin begins on the west side of Rae Lakes. This is truly a pristine, virgin wilderness where rounding any bend in the terrain and topping every rise reveals another shimmering blue body of water, and often several more around it. Most of the lakes flow in to each other through a series of playfully cascading channels. Because many of the backpackers that come through this part of the Sierra are JMT through-hikers with schedules to keep, you will likely have these grass and flower-shored lakes all to yourself. There's only one path winding through the Sixty Lakes Basin, but the easy-to-traverse stone and grass terrain lends itself to freeform exploring.

The Gardiner Basin, west above Sixty Lakes, is another adjacent alpine bowl full of lakes, with many square miles of rugged and remote terrain and numerous pristine lakes to discover, most above treeline and exposed. Some cross-country route-finding is required to explore Gardiner Basin properly, as there are few trails there and a challenging climb to access it. Gardiner Basin is what the Rae Lakes Loop "loops" around, as the high canyon walls of towering peaks separating it from the Rae Lakes loop trails are virtually impassable.

Forester Pass
This trip also included extra time for a 12 mile out-and-back spur trek south on the JMT to climb 13,200 ft. Forester Pass, one of the highest passes in the Sierra and the highest on the JMT. The climb south from the Rae Lakes Loop trail passes through some of the most dramatic terrain in the Sierra and the views from the heights around the pass are unforgettable.

Trip Report

I'd been jones-ing to hike the Rae Lakes loop ever since I first saw some pictures of it. It is truly one of the most beautiful backcountry settings in the Sierra. I got the reservation for my Wilderness Permit online in May for my August trip and thoroughly planned out my route and the gear I'd bring. This is a pretty energetic hike with a lot of vertical gain/drop. Whether you choose to hike the loop clockwise or counter-clockwise, the first day and a half will be a steady climb up 1000's of feet in elevation, most of it a relatively gentle grade. It helped that I'd already been on several multi-day solo hikes in the previous months, been working out and jogging regularly, so I felt pretty good about my conditioning and gear. The lakes are at the highest part of the Rae Lakes Loop, so you'll be climbing up until you reach them. Only on Glen Pass does the trail climb higher than the Rae Lakes themselves. I took one hikers recommendation of doing the loop counter-clockwise, but in the end, I don't think it really matters - both directions pass through amazing mountainscapes and both start and end among dramatic settings. I planned on 4 days to and from Rae Lakes on this trip, and 2 additional days - one for exploring Sixty Lakes Basin west of Rae Lakes and the other for an out-and-back hike to either Gardiner Basin to the west or Forester Pass to the south, both alpine high country with remarkable scenery. This trip would be at a relaxed pace where I could take time to soak up all the scenery I wanted. After reading up and asking questions, I decided to forego the challenging cross-country route to remote Gardiner Basin on this trip and climb up Forester Pass instead.

I struggled to cut the number of photos to show of this hike down from the 1100+ I took to just 60 or so, but couldn't seem to get the final number below the 81 in the Pictures section and a few more in this trip report. Hope you enjoy.

Sunday Aug. 2, 2009
I threw my gear in the car and lit out of LA on a hot, clear morning for the long drive up through Bakersfield and Visalia to Hwy. 198/Generals Hwy. in Sequoia Kings Canyon National Park. I'd drive in and car camp near the trailhead tonight and strike out first thing. Paid my $20 entry fee at the Three Rivers park entrance, then drove north up the mountain through Giant Forest, threading through the thick woods until Hwy. 198 intersects with Hwy. 180 west to Fresno, where I turned east and continued deep into the wilderness to Roads End. 7 hours after I left LA, I pulled in to Moraine campground, the last of several on the road just before the eastern terminus of Hwy. 180 at Roads End.

Bear in campground
Sunday evening was a good choice to arrive as the weekend crowds had left and a lot of choice campsites were available. I gathered some wood, and cooked up dinner as the sun set, relaxing around a small but enjoyable campfire, then laid out my bag to sleep under the stars. The evening was winding down and people were having quiet conversations around dying campfires when the bear-in-the-campground hubris began from a few hundred yards through the trees. There was the usual banging of pots, whistling of whistles and people shouting. I trained my flashlight toward the area and watched a group of yelling guys with flashlights chasing a 350-400 pound brown bear through the trees. The harried bear would run ahead, then trot a little, probably thinking the guys would give up their chase any second, but they pursued hundreds of yards out of the campground and out to the highway before they turned back. I shone my light through the trees by the highway and watched him skulk off. I felt a little sorry for him, but was glad the guys took up the challenge of re-instilling concern of human contact into him. Most people just bang pots and yell until the bear moves away from their tent. He probably wandered through again after everyone was asleep.

Day 1: Roads End to Vidette Meadows - 12.2 mi., +4230 ft.

After breakfast, I hit the road about 7:30 on a cool and clear mountain morning for the 5 mile drive to the end of the highway where there is a Permit Station, parking lots and the trailhead. A big group of 15-20 young women in shorts was already on the road jogging, possibly an Outward Bound program. For a second, I thought I might pull over ahead of them, jump out of the car and lie in their path so they'd jog above me - sort of a MontyPython-esque moment, crushed to death by a tribe of half-naked babes. But they'd probably think it was more creepy than funny, so I just waved as I drove by, admiring the view and their effort of early morning workout after sleeping in tents - not an easy task. I'd be getting plenty of exercise today myself.

I got my permit just after the Permit Station opened, re-parked my car in the overnight lot several hundred yards away, did some last minute checks and adjustments to my gear and was on the trail at 8:15. After 2 miles through tall trees on sandy flats, the trail splits. I took the south, Bubbs Creek trail for my counter clockwise circuit to Rae Lakes. After crossing a bridge over Bubbs Creek, where a family of fishermen were getting more bites from mosquitoes than fish, the trail wastes no time in heading up the steep valley on switchbacks that quickly gain 800 ft. of elevation. Whether you go clockwise or counter-clockwise on your Rae Lakes loop hike, the first day is a long, arduous climb out of the the valley into high country. Either way, you follow the gurgling noise of a lively mountain creek rushing down to the valley from snow-melt peaks high above. As the sun topped the tall valley walls, the cool morning quickly heated up. The trail twists and turns through tall pines and boulder fields, alongside then high above the noisy stream. Took a 15 minute break after 2 1/2 hours of climbing and saw an unusually bright yellow robin-sized bird dashing around above the path, fluttering in the sunlight.

As you climb, the terrain changes from small pine trees and rocks to large ferns, lush, colorful flowers and plants, giant Sugar and Lodgepole pine and enormous boulders that have calved from sheer cliffs high above the trail out of site. Around each bend in the canyon, new vistas of towering granite peaks reveal themselves, always accompanied by the woosh of Bubbs Creek slithering down the mountain like a live animal. Stellars Jays fill the crisp, clean air with taunting screeches and curious blue-bellied lizards eye me from their sunbaths atop trail side boulders, waiting until the last moment before dashing into nearby crevices.

Throughout the afternoon, Bubbs Creek Trail climbs through several meadows with established campsites and bear boxes. About 8 hours and 4000 feet of elevation gain later, I arrived at my first nights destination, Vidette Meadow, altitude 9150 ft., where Bubbs Creek Trail turns south, and the John Muir Trail (JMT) climbs north to Rae Lakes. Although a lush, alpine meadow with lots of tall shade trees and soft, pine-needled campsites, Vidette is quite a ways from the creek and offers only a few stagnant pools for water and an insanity of hungry mosquitoes. I pushed on south to find a spot closer to the creek and away from the mosquitoes.

From the Vidette Meadows junction, the Rae Lakes loop turns on to the popular (some would say crowded) John Muir Trail north for 20-25 miles through the lakes and then splits westward again at a swinging bridge over Woods Creek, where you leave the JMT for the Woods Creek trail and the north half of the loop back to Roads End. The solitude of the Bubbs Creek trail from Roads End is lost as soon the two meet as the JMT is the destination for large groups of well-outfitted hikers from every state and country. Once on the JMT, a new couple or group or hiker appeared around almost every bend in the canyon.

My campsite east of Vidette Mdws. along Bubbs Creek and beneath towering E. Vidette Peak

I continued a half mile up from the junction until the trail sidles the creek again and found an excellent wide spot by the water where the bugs weren't biting much, yet. Through the tall pines, awesome 12,356 ft. East Vidette Peak, an immense pyramidal granite spearhead with perfectly symmetrical sides loomed above, filling the sky. I chatted about backpacking with David, a Manhattan financial analyst who lost his job with Lehman Brothers after the mortgage bankruptcy and is spending 3 weeks hiking the JMT from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney.

As evening settled, I got dinner started and hungry mosquitoes arrived in force, but my head net stymied most of their attack. Still, everywhere my clothes were tight against my skin—like my knees when squatting to stoke the campfire—I got bitten. They seemed undeterred by the smoke and flames, nor by waving the arm they were biting, preferring death over disengagement. The temperature dropped dramatically that night and a brilliant full moon rose quickly from behind the black monolith of East Vidette Peak. A thin veil of cloud cover created brilliant and colorful rings around it.

Day 2: Vidette Meadows to Forester Pass - 10 mi., +3450 / -630 ft.

I slept late, had a leisurely breakfast and hit the JMT south to Forester Pass at 10:30. The day was gorgeous and the wide beautiful valley opened up to greet me with more awe-inspiring mountainscapes above lush meadows with colorful aromatic flowers. At 13,200 ft, Forester Pass is the highest mountain pass on the JMT, a slow ascent at first, becoming steeper as the day progressed. Around every bend in the valley, magnificent new vistas of high ridges, deep forests, alpine meadows and rushing water begged to be photographed. Quite a few people were hiking this segment of the JMT, but mostly going the same direction, so I didn't run into many except those I overtook. I sang songs as I climbed, stopping frequently to grab shots, detouring hundreds of yards off the path to frame the perfect photo. A banjo-playing solo hiker came the down the trail, and although a banjo seemed like an extravagant accessory, it seemed to fit in to the breezy lightness of the morning seamlessly.

After 7-8 miles in the hot sun, the trail levels out onto an expansive green meadow just above treeline, set in an large bowl of jagged peaks, where a burbling blue river of snow melt flows lazily through a spongy, almost manicured carpet of grass and sod. Hidden behind a low ridge, a crystal clear lake reflected the cotton clouds like a mirror. I found a perfect lunch spot in the soft sod, kicked my shoes off and plopped my feet into the icy brook to cool off while I ate. The valley zigzags up the mountain and the pass isn't visible the first mile, so I watched others traverse the meadow and climb the path out of the greenery and into the rocks and stone ahead of me to see where in the jumbled mass of cliffs, moraine and crevasses the trail was going to take me. It's a beautiful and remote setting, far away from any road or town, in perfect weather, and I was enjoying myself despite the formidable exertion in the hot sun.

After a relaxing break, I started up the path to the raw, boulder-strewn, wind-swept pass. I expected a long, tiring climb, and

Trail crew and hikers on the path to Forester Pass

just accepted the strenuous 3 mile, 2500 ft. of elevation gain ascent from here to the top of Forester Pass as part of the deal. On the way, I thanked a large group of Civilian Conservation Corps trail crew for their work doing trail repairs. They were all very tanned, college-age kids with beards and uncut hair, working for little more than the experience of living and working in a National Park. There were some women too. After passing a large deep-blue tarn, I could see the ridgeline containing the Pass high above. Then the switchbacks up begin in earnest and like others already high up the steep, rocky grade, I put one foot after another, over and over, and made my way slowly up the mountain. There was some snow and ice to climb through high above a steep dropoff, traversed by carefully using others footsteps to avoid post-holing up to my crotch into the drift and possibly getting stuck.

The steep valley unfolded below as I climbed and I stopped often to take in the breathtaking views. Clouds swirled in toward late afternoon, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. Then, finally, I was standing in the notch high in a jagged ridge that separated two immense valleys - 13,200 ft. Forester Pass. This is one of the highest mountain passes in the western US, and standing in the exposed gateway, taking in the rugged surrounding peaks gave a sense of remoteness and isolation that defines this part of the Sierra. I chatted with an Australian couple doing the JMT and took some photos, admiring the expansive view toward the rawer, arid south side of the pass, characterized by wide, boulder-filled plains, little vegetation and jagged, sawtooth peaks of the eastern Sierra lining the distant horizon.

The south face of Forester Pass is a sheer wall and the exposed trail is carved into the face of the cliffs with dramatic drop offs of 1000 feet or more. From peak to base, the south side is less than half the distance than from the north side to the beautiful meadow I'd lunched in. Several large lakes at the base reflected the clouds and jagged peaks. Evening was approaching and the thin air cooled fast as the sun dropped behind the high ridges. The switchbacks down end in a rock field that could've been the surface of the moon, except for the earthen color of stone and cliff that dominates the senses. I continued south on the JMT for two miles from the pass before turning back, then returned to the moonscape base of large boulders below the south face to find a suitable campsite as evening fell and the wind grew cold.

Adorable marmot visits me

The only flat grassy spot anywhere near the Pass

I climbed over boulders and ridges, wondering if I'd find a flat spot to camp on here, when I came upon a small grassy spot barely big enough to accomodate my tent. Little streams trickled under the boulders, gurgling into exposed pools, then disappearing again as they flowed downhill. It was a struggle to secure the tent against the rising winds as there was no sinking stakes into the stony ground. I used large rocks to hold down the guylines. Soon after, I had a warm meal in me, some delicious cookies I'd brought, and some hot chocolate and was feeling content. A large, curious marmot approached brazenly in anticipation of a handout, but left disappointed. Although adorably cute, the little rascal would happily gnaw through my pack or my tent and make quick work of stealing all my food if it wasn't in a bear can.

Day 3: Forester Pass to Rae Lakes - 13 mi., +3510 / -4840 ft.

That temperature dropped dramatically in the early hours. It was 32 degrees when I climbed out of my tent in the morning. My sleeping bag got wet and the

Morning and I'm the first atop Forester Pass today

condensation froze on my tent. The early morning ridge shadow covered most of the basin I was in below the south side of Forester so there would be no warming sunshine until I got atop the pass. A hot breakfast helped and I was on my way back up Forester Pass at 7:45, my sleeping bag draped over my pack to dry off. Back on top 45 minutes later and the sun was out full, warming up to 48 degrees - another beautiful day in the Sierra. I'd passed and seen no one as I climbed, so I was the first on top of the pass today. As I started down, I was feeling good that I'd climbed Forester Pass, because I'd wondered if I was doing the right thing by coming all the way down here from the Rae Lakes loop. I'd gotten to experience the amazing vistas in the long, high valley north of the Pass, gotten

"Crowds" of JMT through-hikers climbing to Forester Pass

to discover the beautiful meadow at Foresters northern base surrounded by lofty cliffs, gotten to see the view on the other side of this infamously strenuous pass. I really enjoyed the opportunity to see more of this rugged and remote landscape.

Already, many JMT hikers were slogging up Forester Pass one foot after another and breathing hard just as I had the day earlier. One of the guys mentioned a storm warning forecast for tonight that might drop snow all over my route. More hikers were climbing up Forester than I'd seen on the trail yet. I passed pairs of guys, couples, trios of seniors, a group of a dozen boy scouts, a large family with pre-teen kids, all well-outfitted and in good spirits. It felt good to point out the tiny notch high above that was the top of Forester Pass to those who asked. I've been there. As I descended, I passed all the CCC workers I'd seen the day before, making their morning commute one by one up the mountain

A pair of mule trains return from supplying the Ranger Stations

to the area I'd seen them yesterday.

The next few hours were spent descending through a spectacular round-bottomed valley, enjoying the brilliant colors and perfect weather. At the intersection with the trail to Rae Lakes, I started the steep climb up to the sandy plateau

A big mule eyes me suspiciously. He'd been fighting with the mule in front so the cowboy said he hitched him behind that one to teach him a lesson.

on top of the ridge where there are junctions with the trails to Bullfrog Lakes, Charlotte Lake and Kearsarge Pass, and nice views south up the canyon to Forester Pass that I'd just descended from. On the way up, I spoke with two stock wranglers driving a 10 mule train. They were bringing in mail and supplies and carrying out trash and construction material from the two ranger stations. There was a minor traffic jam among several backpackers on the narrow trail as the cowboys let each animal pause at a stream crossing to drink. They're hugely powerful, these mountain mules, and they eye you suspiciously as you near them. Us backpackers kept our distance and made our way around them through the brush. Horses and mules make a mess out of the trails, trodding hard-pack dirt into deep sand, trampling vegetation, dislodging rocks and leaving big piles of smelly droppings everywhere, which attracts annoying flies. But they're still the primary way of moving loads and supplies for backcountry workers, as they have been for centuries, and they're part of the history of man in the Sierra, so it's one of those things one gets used to here.

Charlotte Lake
From the top of a dusty plateau, I turned on to the trail to Charlotte Lake, which drops down the hill for a mile to the water. I'd read an entertaining book - The Last Season - about an experienced,

Visiting Ranger George. Note bear clawed wall (R) and electric wires!

long-term backcountry SEKI ranger named Randy Morgenson who went missing from his McClure Meadows Ranger Station in 1995 under unusual circumstances. His body was found 5 years later. Apparently he'd crossed a snow bridge in a remote area that collapsed into a deep stream bed crevasse and was missed by searchers. The book is an enlightening account of the efforts of the backcountry rangers - who are only seasonal employees - and the challenges and difficulties they face and what it's like to live relatively isolated in the wilderness 6 months a year. One of Randy's good friends and instrumental to the tale's telling was George Durkee, the current ranger at Charlotte Lake, himself a backcountry veteran . So I made my way to the Charlotte Lake Ranger Station and brought George some of my favorite tasty (and heavy) organic oatmeal raisin cookies from Whole Foods and some pecans and just shook his hand and said thanks. I explored the length of the lake and the pristine meadow at the far west end with it's spongy grass and pools and rivulets throughout. I heard more about the weather alert for the following day that involved predictions of up to 2 inches of snow above 9000 ft. I was above 10,000 now. It was 4:00 and I still had 6-7 miles to go, a big mountain to climb up, then down - Glen Pass - then find and set up camp at Rae Lakes before it got dark.

High above Charlotte Lake, the JMT north up to Glen Pass climbs steeply through raw and sheer rock walls, winding around giant fallen shard-filled canyons, rising up to a jagged and unforgivingly steep ridgeline. Nothing smooth or round can be seen. I pass only a sole hiker coming south. Wind rushes down the channel canyon and deep blue tarns shiver under immense cathedral walls of craggy, granite. The higher the climb, the steeper it gets. The air thins noticeably by 11000 ft. There are steep dropoffs and one stumble or misstep could be disastrous. Although I've already climbed one pass today, walked 10-11 miles, hiked up 1500 ft. and down over 3500 ft. and I'm fairly beat - anxious anticipation as to what I'll see on the other side of this giant stone ridge encourages me. One foot after another, rhythmic breathing, each pole plant, each foot step carefully placed. The sweeping views back toward the plateau and rugged peaks south from which I started today are breathtaking. It's late afternoon and likely no others on the trail behind me would attempt the climb over this high pass later than me, so it feels like I have this immense mountain range all to myself. The wind howls and throws big pink clouds around. Finally, I'm at the top of Glen Pass and the north side reveals itself far below in a sweeping drama of late afternoon sunlight.

Rae Lakes
Rae Lakes are a series of large and small alpine lakes connected by streams, pools, channels and meadows in a basin of towering granite peaks. Islands of rock covered with trees and grass protrude from the shimmering water. The southwestern lakes are above treeline and exposed to harsh alpine conditions, but the rest lie in the shelter of wraparound mountains, where tall trees line the banks, softening the rugged landscape with approachable color.

I spent several long minutes enjoying the view from the top of 11,980 ft. Glen Pass, taking in the spectacular panorama's south over the canyons I'd come through and north to where I'd be going the next few days. The wind was so strong that it was a struggle to stand upright. Year-round snow lines the north side of the switchbacks down through a scramble of large, angular granite rubble. The sun was anxious to sink below the western ridges as the wind picked up, so I don another layer and gloves. Descending the north side of Glen Pass, I chat with two women hikers,

Hardy Seattle-ite grandmothers Lindy and Anne have been section hiking the entire PCT

Lindy and Anne from the Seattle area, (I lived there for 9 years), who had preceded me over the pass a bit earlier, also anxious to beat the storm to Rae Lakes. They are completing another section of their Pacific Crest Trail goal. Hardy gals, both grandmothers. Further down the mountain, another hiker and his son are climbing south up from Rae Lakes to summit the pass before dark. He says they plan on camping at the lakes on the south side of the pass, but I tell them these are rugged tarns with little access and too exposed for a good campsite, especially with the possibility of a mountain storm approaching. They weren't aware of the forecast. I suggested Charlotte Lake as a good sheltered spot, should it turn really nasty. Hikers often get news and good trail information from these brief encounters, but it would be a mistake to put too much trust in a strangers advice, however well-meaning. I've acted on bad info given by other hikers before and regretted not being self-reliant. And I've inadvertantly dispensed bad information I regretted as well. I once innocently told a group of mapless, heavily loaded backpackers I'd overtaken that I was sure the wilderness trail we were on would traverse the mountain, not descend it - only to find after a rugged mile that I was on the wrong trail and it switchbacked straight down! Fortunately, it was a good direction for me and I was well ahead of them when I realized my error. I picked up my pace so I wouldn't have to face them again. Sorry guys! Trusting strangers to inform you of things you should have prepared for and/or should know can be a hard-learned lesson.

I picked up my pace now - it would be dark in an hour and I still had 1200 ft. of elevation to drop through 2 miles of rugged terrain to a lower lake. Then I had to find a sheltered spot and guy my lightweight tent thoroughly if a storm was coming. Rae Lakes is a very popular destination on its own as well as a stopover for all the JMT through-hikers, who tend to camp near the passes and hit them rested in the morning. I didn't know how many backpackers would already be camping at Rae Lakes tonight - 20? 50? - so finding a decent spot after a late arrival could be challenging.

The path around the big southern-most Rae Lake winds above and then along the shoreline through fairy tale rock formations, climbing steps around big boulders and giant trees. The two southern lakes are so close that the raised rocky isthmus between them seems more like an island. Several hikers were camping at exposed sites on ledges above the lake with great views that offered no protection against the wind, as if they hadn't heard of the weather alert. It's impossible to sleep if your tent is flapping in the wind all night.

I followed the trail north around the lake away from the others looking for a protected spot. I climbed a hill off the path and found a perfect previously-used site sheltered by a large boulder on one side and a thick grove of trees on two others with an awesome view of Painted Lady, the giant granite pyramid peak guarding the south shore of the big lake. I spent an inordinately long time tying down the tent, making sure a midnight rain or snow storm wouldn't blow it down or fill it up with water and it was dark when I finished. After dinner, I had a nice headlamp stroll around the smooth, round boulders. Apparently I had the entire isthmus above the lakes to myself. I layered up in all my clothes and turned in as the temperature dropped dramatically. Throughout the night, irregular 50 mph blasts of wind rushed across the lake and up the slope, rattling the tent, shattering long moments of calm. I felt sorry for those who camped right along the lakeshore on the ledges with the great views. I got up in the middle of the night to water the rocks, tighten the guylines and admire the view. The full moon lit up the entire basin with soft veiled light, while low-hanging clouds teased and caressed the high peaks. Deep shadow and stillness had settled over this dramatic lake basin. There would be no storm tonight.

Day 4: Sixty Lakes Basin day trip - 8 mi., +400 / -400 ft.

The next morning, the condensation in and out of my tent had frozen on the silnylon fabric, but the sun was shining bright. The looming storm forecast had yet to manifest itself and another sparkling Sierra wilderness morning was at hand. Today would be a relaxing day of

My well-sheltered site between a boulder and a thick cluster of trees, overlooking the lake

exploration and not pounding the trail to reach a destination. After breakfast, I got my day pack together, made my way to the western side of the big lake, where Sixty Lakes Basin access trail switchbacks up 500 feet of elevation over a ridge between the two lake basins. It's a mystery how "they" came up with the number sixty, as there are such a myriad of lakes and ponds in the basin, connected by streams, waterfalls and underground channels that it would seem impossible to quantify them. From the saddle, the access trail descends west and then north about 2.5 miles into the basin. Once over the ridge, it's relatively easy to strike out cross-country to explore the multitude of pristine lakes and meadows. Sixty Lakes basin is a minimum 2 days hike from any road. Only John Muir Trail hikers, who usually stick to the main trail, and the handful of Rae Lakes looper's are even aware of it. In the whole day of exploring the basin, I saw only a pair of hikers and a tent.

I arrive at the first large lake minutes after topping the ridge, and the second through the woods on the way west down into the basin. Most of the lakes lie in relatively the same elevation at the bottom of the basin, stretched out north to south, mile after mile of them connected by meadows and rocky passages. As I wandered off the path and along the shores of this pristine and untrammeled lake wilderness, it was easy to think I was the first and only person who had ever experienced some of these vistas. Silvery trout lounge in the shadows of the crystal clear waters, which is bounded by meadows of comforting green sod and an explosion of brilliant wildflowers of every color swaying in the warm breeze. Ancient stands of huge pines line the shores and far above, jagged spires of towering peaks peer in. Nature has done her best here - every element and object has it's complement and exists in complete harmony - the weathered orange pines and sand-colored mountains against the crisp blue sky, the green leaves and red Manzanita against the gnarled trunks and branches of old-growth pine, the purple and magenta and yellow flowers fluttering under billowing white clouds.

Returning to Rae Lakes from a day of exploring the 60 Lks.

The scent of pine and the soundtrack of gurgling water and rustling leaves completes the masterful scene. Somewhere high above, a hawk cries out.

I followed the trail north until it ended and then made out cross-country for another mile, where I found a relaxing lakeside spot to break for lunch and read. Then I researched a shortcut back over a nearby mountain depicted on my topo map so I could rejoin the JMT back to camp, rather than backtrack the way I'd come. Deciding it might be more trouble than fun, I returned the direction I'd come, but took a cross-country route back. The wind was picking up, the temperature dropping and the clouds were blowing in when I got back in early evening, but it didn't look the sky had a major storm in her, though there was no telling what weather was forming on the other side of the rugged peaks to the west. I got dinner going and re-secured my tent in case the storm would blow in tonight. Once again it dropped to freezing over night but I was snug in my bag.

Day 5: Rae Lakes to Paradise Valley - 11.7 mi., - 3630 ft.

Accustomed to stiff, frigid mornings now, I cooked breakfast, had my gear packed up and hit the JMT going north about 8:30. Once and for all, the specter of bad weather had vaporized and each day seemed more clear and vivid than the previous. Said goodbye to the big southern Rae Lakes and Glen Pass high above them on a craggy ridge south, adieu to the colorful Painted Lady who graced the skyline above my camp and farewell to the majestically symmetrical Fin Dome. Passed by the northern Rae Lakes on the way out, mostly hidden from the trail by forest. I was glad I did the loop counterclockwise, in order to get the dramatic introduction to these magical lakes from atop Glen Pass like I did. The northern Rae Lakes, and a few others above them, play hide-and-seek from hikers and so are a little disappointing. Most of the uphill is behind me now. It's going to be two days descending over 4000 feet to the trailhead, and that makes for an easy pace.

View north on the JMT just above where it crosses Woods Crk. on the suspension bridge

The Rae Lakes Loop follows the John Muir Trail north for 7-8 miles above Rae Lakes, then turns west onto the Woods Creek trail at a large swinging bridge. Descending from 10,000, then 9000 and 8000 feet, the serrated, alpine peaks slowly change into more rounded and sculpted mountain forms, but maintain their majestic height above the canyon floor. The trail follows the twisting canyons through an ever changing landscape, from high, green meadows under jagged, treeless ridges, through thin forests of windswept giant pines, over rushing snow-melt creeks, into lush fern bedecked gardens under a shady canopy of oaks and aspens full of chirping wrens and screeching jays. Along the way, I passed numerous southbound JMT hikers on the last few days of their long trip. Most would be aiming for a climb over Glen Pass today, Forester Pass tomorrow and on to Mt. Whitney and out a couple of days later. Rae Lakes is just another series of alpine lakes for most JMT through-hikers to pass through, their camp before the pass. Only the most adventurous and deadline-free hikers venture over the mountain to Sixty Lakes, or to the rugged, alpine Gardiner Basin hidden beyond it to the west, which I'll do another time.

About 9 miles north of Rae Lakes, the JMT crosses Woods Creek on a large suspension bridge, novel and entertaining after crossing smaller wooden plank bridges, downed logs and untold hours trodding on dirt and rock. This swinging bridge is a narrow span of wooden beams and steel cables 200 feet in length, with steep steel stairway ladders on either end. The wooden plank walkway, suspended 50 feet above the rushing boulder-filled creek, hangs from the cables, which serve as handrails. The sign says "One person at a time" with good reason - the weight of a single backpacker sets the entire affair swaying and bouncing after just a few steps. I thought I'd try it with no hands but only got a few steps before it tried to dump me.

Pileated Woodpecker making a racket

Around a bend in the creek one hundred yards downstream, there is a wide spot in the river for stock to wade across. At first glance, this bridge seems a little extravagant for this creek and summertime stream levels - like a few well placed boulders would be adequate enough for hikers to cross the knee deep stream. But the river crossing is at a convergence of two steep sided canyons with significant drainage, which must offer opportunities for dangerously high water in rainy weather.

Turning west on the final 16 mile segment of the Rae Lakes loop, the Woods Creek trail descends through deep forest and emerges at one of the most picturesque sections of the trail - the valley of Castle Domes - one of my favorite spots. The Castle Domes are magnificent granite formations that are individual peaks of one immense massif, each with a distinct shape. Clinging precariously to high ridges, giant trees defy their tenuous hold on every possible non-vertical ledge, from the gradual granite slope near the valley floor up to the highest, neck-craning escarpments, teetering with gravity-defying daring over cliffed edge. On all sides of the trail, breathtaking peaks rise skyward to epic heights, and views of the mountain ranges passed through and those ahead beckon from far below in Paradise Valley. I took a long, relaxed break in the shade of an ancient and gnarled tree to cool down and read my book. Descending further, the trail passes through Castle Dome Meadow, a perfect alpine setting, replete with towering trees, deer, quail

Steel bridge over Woods Creek

and songbirds. Bushes, shrubs and flowers of every color complete the humbling sight. I didn't want to leave this remote and seldom seen valley, a garden of stone and sky, and just stood breathing it in as long as I could. I couldn't stop myself from taking picture after picture of every angle that presented itself as I walked.

Woods Creek trail becomes increasingly steep and rocky as it descends west into Paradise Valley, and diverges from the water to a place high above the stream, sometimes out of earshot. After many miles of following the stream down the canyon, I made camp for the night in Upper Paradise valley, where another creek joins Woods Creek at a steel bridge. In the Paradise Valley, camping is allowed only at established family-style campsites - all next to each other and sharing common bear boxes. The mosquitoes were ferocious and it was a challenge to set up camp and get dinner going, but soon after, I was in my shelter drifting off to sleep.

Day 6: Paradise Valley to Roads End and out - 8.3 mi., -1850 ft.

The temperatures at this much lower elevation are dramatically higher than I was used to and I awoke to warm sunshine. There were just 8 miles

Fearless deer are everywhere along the trail

to cover today and I'd be back at the car for the long drive back to LA by 1:00. I set out at 8:30 at a relaxed pace. At Middle Paradise, I heard some campers down the trail, banging pots and calling loudly at a bear. I hadn't spotted a bear in the daylight on this trip and got my camera ready but apparently just missed seeing him. I passed several backpackers making their way east - beginning the long, slow climb up to Rae Lakes in a clockwise direction - and I was happy I would be finishing my hike on a downhill run.

My first landmark was Mist Falls, where Woods Creek tumbles 60 feet over a rounded cliff and cascades down a slope of granite into multiple channels and pools. I could hear the noise as I approached from above and after I got a glimpse, I found a way down the steep slope to the giant boulders at the base of the falls. Apparently I'd have the place to myself. As I looked around for a spot to take a lunch break, I noticed the easier access trail from a place further down the mountain and saw several people at the top of it approaching. Five minutes later there, were a dozen tourists, families and teenagers clambering around the falls, stepping on the wildflowers, shouting and whining and

The scenic drive out on Hwy. 180 west

screaming and posing for pictures on every part of the falls. It was the end of my solitary enjoyment of this valley. Now I was back in "civilization".

I stopped to chat with an attractive lady ranger passing on a solo patrol. She was on the track of the bear that had been raiding the campsites and asked about my experience on the Loop. It was a beautiful Saturday in the height of the summer season and she related that even this 5 mile trail to Mist Falls in the remotest area of the park that one could access by car could be a zoo of people. It was approaching 90 degrees when I came out of the woods at the bottom of the mountain where the loops begin from the access trail. Then I was back at the car, enjoying a not-cold, but not-hot beer that had been insulated in my cooler wrapped in a sleeping bag for 6 days. For a diversion from the General's Highway, this time I took a back route—twisty Hwy. 245—down from Kings Canyon Park to Visalia. It's a good road and a picturesque drive I'd recommend if you're not in a hurry. After many hours of hot freeway driving, I arrived in LA after dark.

Trail / Conditions / Maps

The Rae Lakes loop begins and ends at Road's End, the terminus of Hwy. 180 in northern Kings Canyon National Park. The loop route is 46 miles with almost 7000 ft. of elevation gain and 7000 ft. of drop. The average hiker can do it in 4 days, but 5 or more is recommended for side trips.

In addition to Rae Lakes, this trip included out-and-back spur hikes to Forester Pass and to Sixty Lakes Basin, adding 22 additional miles—for a total of approximately 68 miles—and additional elevation gain of approximately 4600 ft and drop of same amount.

Trail map of 6 day lasso loop to Rae Lakes, 60 Lakes and Forester Pass in Kings Canyon National Park, CA

SEKI National Park has an active trail maintenance program and the trails are well kept. The high passes have looming dropoffs but this trip has only Class 1 and 2 grades -walking and steep climbs.

The Sierra has long history of use by stock and you may have to share the trail with horses and mules at anytime.

Directions / Permits / Links

From north Los Angeles, it's approximately 314 miles to Road's End in Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park's via the southwest entrance at Three Rivers, CA. It took me 7 hours up I-5, Hwy. 99 through Bakersfield and then Hwy. 198 east out of Visalia

Wilderness permits are required for all overnight camping outside designated car campgrounds in Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park. (SEKI). Day hikes do not require permits. If you've ever backpacked in a popular national park before, you know that you have to plan many, many months in advance as the quota for Wilderness Permits is filled early. Some permits are reserved for walk-in, first-come, first-served hikers.

Reservations for a Wilderness Permit ($15) should be made online. Permits then need to be picked up in person the day before or before 9:00am the morning of the hike. Unlike other National Parks where you can pick up your permit at any Ranger Station, SEKI permits are issued based on the trailhead where you begin your trip and must be obtained from the permit station closest to your trailhead, which for this hike is the Road's End Permit Station. Permits must be carried by the trip leader at all times.

In most of SEKI park, permit holders have free reign to camp pretty much where you want, as long as you follow the basics - e.g., 100 ft. from water, use existing sites when you can, etc. Campfires aren't allowed above treeline or in the Rae, Gardiner or 60 Lakes Basin. There are limits on where you can camp and for how many nights, even rules for using the steel bear boxes. (They're for JMT/PCT through-hikers only).

During off-season, Sep. 26 - May 27—when the backcountry Ranger Stations are closed—there is no trailhead quota, no reservation required and Wilderness Permits are self-serve at the Visitor Centers and Permit Stations.

Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI) website
Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI) Rae Lakes Loop page
SEKI Wilderness Permit info and reservations
National Weather Service (NOAA) forecast for the Road's End area of Sequoia National Park

Pictures

Getting there

Lake Kaweah, approaching Sequoia-Kings Canyon National Park from the west on Hwy. 198

Love the giant ox by a Three Rivers market, but not pomegranate juice...

Old timey sign near Visitors Center

Giant Sequoia tree in Giant Forest

Looking east towards the valley where Hwy. 180 terminates at Road's End

Through the valley, the highway hugs high cliffs with big dropoffs. Look closely to see the car and the road.

Through the valley, the hwy. hugs high cliffs with big dropoffs. Look closely to see the car and the road.

On the trail

Looking back west at the valley just climbed up, about 3 miles from Roads End trailhead	Big peaks scrape the sky on both sides of the canyon up	Bubbs Creek becomes a noisy waterfall near Junction Meadow	Panorama south (L) and west (R) from above the falls
Formidable walls of jagged granite line the north canyon. On the other side is Gardiner Basin, a remote lost land of alpine lakes.		Bubbs Creek carves a deep gorge near Junction Meadow	Bubbs Creek trail follows rushing water beneath towering peaks	Morning of day 2, a spur trip south on the JMT to climb Forester Pass. Looking north down the valley just ascended from the Rae Lks. loop trail.
The Sierra gives up the perfect colors one expects from a mountain paradise.	At the edge of treeline is a final lush meadow basin before tackling the long ascent to Forester Pass. The trail climbs the valley between the two mountains.	A pair of hikers cool off at the meadow's lake, hidden from the trail behind a stony bluff	A backpacker silhouetted against a swarm of fast-moving clouds	Looking north at the lunarscape valley just climbed	View southeast at peaks that share the ridge with Forester Pass, out of view on the right
The colors and shapes tell a tale of violent beginnings	Large tarn near the final miles to the pass	Fast-moving clouds played in the sun, splashing shadowy colors onto the Range of Light. View north of Kings Canyon National Park near Forester Pass from the John Muir Trail.		Even in late summer, there's a bank of snow and ice to cross, in places waist deep if you posthole in the wrong spot.	The other/south side of Forester Pass. Stone embankments support the steep switchbacked trail below the pass (top right).
The dramatic high alpine view south (L) and west (R) from atop Forester Pass. You can make out the trail in the bottom center		Looking back at Forester Pass, a notch in the very center of the photo, from a mile south	Early morning of day 3, view north from the top of Forester Pass	The color of the water is unreal	Many JMT through-hikers camp below the passes and climb them first thing
A morning view of the meadow basin north of Forester Pass. A trail crew is climbing up to go to work (bottom center)	The meadow lake again in the warm morning sun.	Unusual stone-filled hole, shaped like an arrow.	The grass in the meadow is soft and spongy and the banks of the stream seemed almost landscaped	Valley north between Forester and Glen Passes	Bubbs Creek
Giant dead trees add color	Awesome pyramidal E. Vidette Peak towers above the canyon south to Forester Pass	Charlotte Lake, view west		Large primal meadow west of Charlotte Lake. Rivulets and miniature streams wind through the spongy sod
Charlotte Lake from the JMT. View southwest to the distant peaks of the Great Western Divide	Charlotte Dome in a spur valley west of the JMT between Charlotte Lk. and Glen Pass	Looking south at the final basin from which the ascent to Glen Pass begins in earnest.	Above a bowl of impassibly high walls, Glen Pass is a small notch in the center of the ridge	View south from the top of Glen Pass. You can see the trail winding above the tarn
First glimpse north at the Rae Lakes basin from atop Glen Pass. The John Muir Trail wraps around the tree-lined lakes at the upper right and continues north			Hikers make their way down from Glen Pass. Well, you'll just have to take my word for it - it's a big hill.	Dusk brings a satiny deep blue sheen to the big south Rae Lake
Morning of day 4. Fin Dome towers over the deep blue Rae Lakes in this view south	The Rae Lakes have numerous islands and channels, isthmus' and peninsulas.	HIkers make their way up to the pass for Sixty Lakes Basin.	Rae Lakes in the Sierra Nevada of Kings Canyon National Park, California. Center left is Dragon Peak, far right is Painted Lady. View north (L) to south (R) from the trail to Sixty Lakes Basin.		Rae Lakes from atop the pass to Sixty Lakes.
The Sixty Lakes Basin, looking northwest		Sixty Lks. is a pristine wilderness you'll have all to yourself	Lake after lake appear at every turn, over every rise		Creeks channel the water from one lake to another
Dead trees can stay standing for decades	Giant peaks peer into the basin on all sides	The back (west) side of Fin Dome in this view south	Sixty Lakes Basin in Kings Canyon National Park, CA. 180 degree panorama from north (left) to south (right)
An endless variety of one amazing lake after another			After a full day of exploring, it was time to head back		A last look back north
The first of the 60 Lks. near the top of the access pass	Descending back to Rae Lks. in the late afternoon sun.	Morning of day 5 and leaving Rae Lakes basin. View south (L) and west (R) from the John Muir Trail		One of the final Rae Lakes seen as the JMT descends north.	Handsome red trees flourishing in a rugged setting. From the other side, the northern exposure, they are an indistinct shade of brown.
Approaching the swinging bridge above Woods Creek where the JMT meets the Woods Creek trail	They aren't kidding about one at a time - it really sways!	West of the swinging bridge and after leaving the JMT, the Woods Creek trail descends through Castle Domes valley, one of my favorite of the trip			Photos can't capture the soaring heights of the the surrounding peaks
A dramatic trio on the ridgeline	View south from the Woods Creek trail in the Castle Domes valley		Every few minutes another unique mountain formation comes into view		After days of granite and thick forest, the wide, grassy Castle Domes Meadow is a welcome change
View east back to Castle Domes valley along the Woods Creek portion of the Rae Lakes loop, between Paradise and the JMT.		A giant Sugar Pine tree reaching for the clouds		I had lunch, relaxed, read my book and lingered here for an hour
Looking west toward Paradise Valley, a steep canyon connecting Roads End in the west with the John Muir Trail to the east		Paradise Valley looking west	Day 6 and Mist Falls from above	Mist Falls is a destination for dayhikers from Roads End
The final few miles west below Mist Falls	Granite ridge above the flat sandy trail near the Road's End trailhead offers a taste of things to come			More photos in the Trip Report top of page

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