South rim to river Grand Canyon backpacking

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Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

June 22-23, 2011
South Rim to river via South Kaibab and Bright Angel trails- a strenuous but rewarding 16.5 mile roundtrip
Words & images ©2011 Larry Sullivan. All rights reserved.

Hikes Index

Overview

The Grand Canyon of the Colorado River is one of the most legendary destinations in the world. The numbers are impressive: 277 river miles long, up to 18 miles wide, 1 mile deep, covering 1.2 million acres, created over 6 millions years.

The Grand Canyon is so big that deciding where to go can be a challenge. The North Rim is just a dozen miles across the canyon from the South Rim, but hundreds of miles away by car, which usually means deciding to see either one or the other per visit. For the casual explorer, the obvious choice to begin is the easily accessible South Rim, which has Desert View visitor center, Grand Canyon visitor center, Grand Canyon Village and a well-developed infrastructure of accomodations, visitor concessions and free transportation, as well as epic vistas. Historically, the South Rim has been the epicenter of Grand Canyon tourism for over 100 years.

Next, I needed the classic South Rim hiking experience. That was also easy - a rim to river (R2R) and back hike immerses you in a variety of terrain and vegetation and takes you to the main event of the Grand Canyon -the river that carved it. Hiking to the Colorado River and back from one vertical mile above is an ambitious undertaking, and the perfect focal point to a Grand Canyon hiking trip. And so the decision was made to hike to Bright Angel campground from the South Rim, and back, going down the South Kaibab (pronounced KI bab) trail, and returning on the Bright Angel trail, to make a nice loop out of it.

Getting an early start to beat the heat is the essential ingredient of Grand Canyon summer backpacking. Park literature recommends resting in the shade between 10am-4pm, the peak heat hours. Of course this takes away most of the light of day. It's wise to take this advice to heart, as it gets hotter as you drop to the river - much hotter, up to 15 degrees hotter!

John Wesley Powell's 1869 expedition found clear water entering the muddy Colorado here and later gave it the name Bright Angel creek. Two steel suspension bridges serve Bright Angel - the South Kaibab bridge which serves its namesake trail, and the Silver Bridge, which carries the Bright Angel trail. Bright Angel is only used by hikers, whereas South Kaibab is the trail used by mules to haul tourists and supplies, and the bridge is lined with heavy wooden planks.

Aside from a R2R roundtrip, what other Grand Canyon backcountry adventures beckon? I'd hoped to visit Havasu Falls, on Havasu Indian land at the western end of the Grand Canyon. But permit reservations require speaking to a native agent on the phone and noone answered after one dozen tries over a two week span. I assumed it was closed after a historically harsh rainy season. Finally, when I did get through, I was told the season was sold out.

You're probably not going to want to do more than one strenuous R2R per trip, unless you have thighs and calves of steel. There's plenty of exploring along the length of the rim, but honestly, after a few dayhikes/bike rides, the shape of the terrain seems to be very similar from everywhere. Most of the non-canyon flat lands at the top is covered with thick forest or desert, with limited potential for discovering unique vistas. It's not difficult to spend hours gazing across the canyon, watching the giant walls reflect the changing atmospheric conditions, and the variety of colors, shadows and play of light.

The dilemma for backcountry hikers at the Grand Canyon is that almost all of the overnight treks involve steep descents coupled with strenuous ascents. I'll wrap up this intro with that observation, that I have yet to discover my next Grand Canyon backcountry adventure. It may well be an exploration of the more ruggedly remote North Rim, or maybe a river rafting trip, but that might belong to another category all together.

Trip Report

Many of us are so familiar with images of the giant chasm of colorful eroded layers and throngs of tourists that it would seem almost everyone has either been there or will go at some time in the future. This same familiarity is what has kept me away, almost like I've already been there. But after many forays into the adjacent parks, it was time to put aside my preconceptions and go.

The Grand Canyon was the final leg of my two week Southwest trek. I'd spent a week canyoneering in Zion National Park, several days in Vermilion Cliffs-Pariah National Monument and some time off in Page, Arizona.

Months earlier, I bought a permit online to hike from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon to Bright Angel campground on the Colorado River on July 22, and return the next day. Because of the steep canyon walls, there's limited exploration from Bright Angel, save climbing to the North Rim, a strenuous all day hike up 5000 vertical feet. There's no hiking along the Colorado because the banks of the river are sheer cliffs and it gets extremely hot down on the river - well over 100 degrees - so one day here gives an adequate if not thorough experience.

Most national parks sell reservations online and you have to pick up your actual permit once you arrive. Grand Canyon sends you the permit in the mail. I have two nights of camping reserved on the Rim, for both sides of my hike: night 1- Mather Campground, night 2-Bright Angel Campground, night 3-Mather Campground again.

Two trails connect Bright Angel campground to the South Rim, so I'm going down South Kaibab trail, which has water only at the trailhead, and coming up Bright Angel trail, which has water at several areas along the trail. Bright Angel is the main trail to Indian Gardens, a shady oasis beneath redrock cliffs a few miles below the rim, as well as to Bright Angel campground. Making a loop hike lets me see more of the park than a roundtrip on the same trail. The park has a free shuttle service, so it's easy to leave your car at the Visitor Center and take the bus to and from these two trailheads, which are 4 miles apart.

The drive in from Page, Arizona gives a good overall picture of the landscape to the north and east of the Grand Canyon. The 1/4 mile hike through deep sand to Horseshoe Bend, a soaring cliff edge overlook 1000 ft. above the Colorado River, is an impressive landmark and photographers favorite.

At the East Entrance station, I'm happy to find they aren't charging the usual $25 entrance fee today to celebrate Summer Solstice. Just inside the East Entrance, the Desert View visitor center has a great view across the canyon and down to the Colorado River far below. This is an expansive area with large parking lots full of tour buses, where those arriving from the east like me get their first experience with the masses of tourists who visit the South Rim. It seemed fully half of the visitors were speaking foreign languages.

In addition to a decent grocery store, gift shop, bathrooms and campground, there is the historic Desert View tower, a rustic 4 story stone structure constructed in the 1930's. You can climb to a balcony and the upper floors on narrow stairways. The walls are decorated with murals and native art. Along the South Rim highway towards Grand Canyon Village, there are numerous overlooks to explore at different points overlooking the canyon - Navajo, Lipan, Moran and Grandview Points.

I stop at the Grand Canyon Visitor Center at Mather Point and speak with a backcountry ranger about conditions, catch the half hour movie at the theatre, then walk out to the rim trail, which is quite a ways from the parking lot. Several giant mule deer wander through the crowded area as if they own the place.

Several times I find the signage in the park to be seriously lacking. It's easy to miss the Visitor Center from the parking lot, and to miss your turn to Mather campground. Mather is particularly well hidden when arriving from the east, requiring a circuitous route through the Market Plaza parking lot. It's an enormous campground with an office on site to help with reservations. There is also a large building with cheap showers and a laundry facilities.

Market Plaza has the biggest grocery store in the park, which also has a small outfitter/camping supplies shop and a deli. Also in the Plaza is a gift store, a large cafeteria and a post office. Further west in Grand Canyon Village, you'll find many lodges and hotels, as well as the train depot for the Grand Canyon Railway.

Day 1: South Rim to Bright Angel campground on the South Kaibab trail

I'm up at 5:00am, having breakfast and breaking camp in the cool dawn. I drive to the Visitor Center to leave my car in one of the large parking lots because there's no parking at the South Kaibab trailhead - the road is closed to private vehicles. You get to the trailhead on the free park shuttle bus. I check my gear in the parking lot, fill up my water at the Visitor Center's public spigots, then walk over to the outside shuttle terminal.

The shuttle makes a few stops and then I'm starting down the South Kaibab trail at 6:45am. It's a 7.5 mile hike to river, so I'll be at Bright Angel by lunch. Although it's all down hill, the trail off the rim drops down steep switchbacks with loose gravel and dirt that keeps you on your toes. Trekking poles saved a misstep multiple times.

On the way, I chat with a young lady commuting to her job as an interpretive ranger at Phantom Ranch, a creekside destination with rustic cabins, canteen, amphitheatre and a few basic tourist amenities populated mostly by tourists arriving by mule. She works one week on full-time, then hikes up and has several days off.

Slowly, the sun rises above the horizon and the canyon regains its colors - vivid reds and purple shadows. By 8am, it's already warmed up considerably. In another hour, it'll be hot. The temperature at Bright Angel Campground will reach 107 degrees by early afternoon! Quite a few hikers are on the trail, most on dayhikes down to several river overlooks.

After the steep drop off the South Rim, the trail winds down a plateau for several miles before descending the final vertical wall to the river. The Colorado is only visible in glimpses until the last 2 miles. There are no trees below the rim, and no shade, until you reach the river.

Toward the halfway spot called TipOff, several mule trains make their way up the mountain. The mules carry all the supplies and food for the park service staff at Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campground, as well as tourists and their gear. They pack their own feed on the trip down, as there's no pasture down below. Coming up must be lighter, but they still haul out trash.

Another mile and the trail drops over the rim and in to the big chasm that holds the Colorado. The swath of green surrounding Bright Angel creek looks like an oasis in sea of brown stone. The roar of the muddy brown river echoes up from below. The Colorado is a big fast-moving river with strong currents, whitecaps and swirling eddies. There are few people-friendly egress points - not a river to jump in and take a swim. Several rafting groups pass below, others are moored at the Boat Beach, a riverside campsite used by rafters just upstream from Bright Angel creek.

A final mile of steep switchbacks puts me at a tunnel that emerges on the big steel South Kaibab suspension bridge stretched high above the water. The hottest part of the day is in full swing and I'm looking forward to finding a shady spot to cool off.

On the north side of the river, the trail passes Boat Beach, where several rafting groups are camped in a tree-shaded spot, and then along side some Indian ruins, stone foundations of several structures dug in to the hill. Several Park Service buildings for employees line Bright Angel creek, which is running at a robust flow, about 20-30 ft. wide.

Bright Angel campground is a very serene and inviting setting, nicely situated along playful Bright Angel creek, under big shade trees beneath high canyon walls. Half of the sites are directly on the creek, with their own waterfront access. Almost all of them have shady spots at different times of day. Each site has a table, steel ammo box/food storage containers, a concrete cooking block and a steel pole to hang gear out of reach of small animals. In the middle is a bathroom with flush toilets, although they weren't working properly because silt had clogged the system. To flush the toilet, you fill up a 5 gallon bucket and pour it directly into the bowl. There are 2 group sites with stone structures.

Finding all of the creekside sites occupied, I choose #23, one of the nicer cliff-side sites, and set up camp. I've been anticipating cooling off in the creek for hours. Other campers upcreek slowly lower themselves into the icy water, soaking ankles and knees. There are lots of mini-dams throughout the creek where people have diverted the water into pools for relaxing in. The ranger told me they encourage this creek-bed engineering because they want everyone to counter the heat of the afternoon in the water and stay as cooled down as possible. The winter flow will return the creek to its natural condition.

Through the bushes near my camp, a little trail leads to my own private waterfront. I startle a little deer resting in a shady bower who's waited until I'm only a few feet away to jump off. I find a perfect relaxing mini-pool with a nicely engineered stone chaise in the stream bed. The frigid water takes several long minutes to get used to, but the searing heat in this canyon is dramatic and motivating. Slowly I sink up to my chest and find a spot to lean back and zen out. The rest of the afternoon is spent lounging in the stream, enjoying the sound of the water and the colors of the trees and plants and canyon walls. I grin at the overheated hikers who appear along the trail across the stream from time to time, enviously eyeing my idyllic stream-bed easy chair.

Later I see a temperature gauge in the sun which reads 120 degrees. A park employee reminds me that temperature is calculated in the shade, but that it's easily 107 degrees. When you're not in the water, the heat and lack of a breeze makes staying comfortable a challenge.

Later in the afternoon, I explore the area some, walking out the Bright Angel trail to the Bright Angel bridge, called Silver Bridge, and crossing to the south side of the river. The Colorado is a powerful force of nature and watching it swirl and bounce and race through these giant sheer canyon walls is mesmerizing. But the heat is formidable and saps the energy for extended explorations and I retire to my creek chaise again.

Finally the evening arrives and the heat subsides. Even a warm 80 degree night is a welcome change from the stifling desert heat. There is socializing and drinks at the Phantom Ranch canteen and a ranger-led storytelling session, but I'm pretty beat and turn in early. It isn't until the wee hours of morning that it's chilly enough to get inside my bag. Tomorrow will be a serious climb out, and I'll have to start very early.

Day 2: Bright Angel campground to the South Rim on the Bright Angel trail

I'm up at 3am, have breakfast and break camp in the dark. At the water spigot, I fill up my 3 liter hydration bladder and my 1.5 liter Nalgene bottle as well as a 1 quart electrolyte drink. It weighs a ton, but better safe than sorry. The plan is to reach Indian Gardens by sunrise, which will put me in good position to avoid the hottest part of the morning. Indian Gardens is 2/3 of the distance between Bright Angel campground and Bright Angel trailhead, but only 1/2 of the vertical. The climb from Indian Gardens to the rim towering far above is easily the most strenuous part of the entire hike because the sun will be out in force.

I start out the Bright Angel trail in the light of my headlamp, carefully avoiding roots and boulders in the path. In the blackness across the river, I see a light 1/2 mile ahead - another hiker has beat me out of camp. We are almost certainly the first up the mountain today. Standing in the middle of the swaying Silver Bridge, I turn off my headlamp for a few moments to enjoy the full moon shining on the rushing river below. Looking back, I see the light of a third hiker leaving camp 1/2 mile behind me.

The trail hugs the river for a mile downstream, climbing slowly up the cliff face through deep sand. Then it turns south and begins the steep ascent to the high ridges above the lower canyon. In the darkness, the scale of this big stone wilderness is more intimidating as you can't see where the path goes or where the looming dropoffs are. After an hour of negotiating numerous creek crossings and steep switchbacks, I overtake the hiker in front of me. I'm surprised it's a college age girl traveling alone, carrying only a small daypack and a flashlight. She glances back nervously as I approach her in the dark near a big cliff face. But we walk and chat some and she's fine. She's visiting from Pennsylvania, stayed at Phantom Ranch. Her folks were riding up South Kaibab on mules with her gear. She wanted to tough it out on foot. I don't see the light behind me again.

By 5am, it's light enough to turn off the headlamp. The trail winds up past some uniquely curved rock formations, around a deep canyon and several waterfalls, then on to the plateau. It's a long slow slog up, up, up - footstep after footstep - requiring a concentrated pace. Morning light arrives quickly. I reach Indian Gardens around 6:30am and take a 10 minute break. Indian Gardens is a big campground and quite a few people are breaking camp. There is water available here but I've been using less than anticipated and still have plenty. Many others are on the trail ahead of me. By now, I have a good tempo going and pass numerous hikers from Indian Gardens. The girl and I have been leap-frogging each other at break stops. I joke that we are the only two on the trail that know how much more exertion we've expended than these Indian Garden campers, and that maybe rangers will reward the first up from the river with a brand new car, and that I plan on beating her to it.

The final climb up the big wall to the South Rim is in the full heat of the morning. Now there are hundreds of people coming down on day trips, as well as dozens climbing out from Indian Gardens, and others returning to the rim from early morning trips. The final two miles are a series of steps connected by steep paths.

A lady backpacker overtakes me and says it was 110 degrees at Phantom Ranch yesterday. I realize that she was the light behind me at the beginning of the hike this morning. So besides myself, there are two solo females hiking up from the river - interesting how times change. I'm pretty exhausted but she seems to have a burst of energy and moves ahead quickly. "Damn" I'm thinking, "she's gonna get my car!" If I'd carried less water and resupplied at Indian Gardens, I might have saved some energy.

There are two tunnels to pass through and several rest stops with bathrooms and water. Finally, I'm on top, calves and thighs burning, exhausted. It's 9:20am, five hours and fifty minutes after I left. I've beat the heat and still have much more water than I needed.

There's a shuttle stop a few hundred yards from the trailhead. I note a sign about Village Center and jump on. After a few stops, I realize this shuttle is going away from the Village center in the wrong direction, out a restricted road to Hermits Rest. Only a few stops have returning buses so I have to ride out even further to transfer to a returning bus. 45 minutes later, I'm back at the trailhead where I finished my hike, waiting for the correct bus to the Visitor Center. I overhear another group complaining how they got mixed up by the signs and took the wrong bus too. This experience might save you some frustration at the end of your hike, when you're exhausted, anxious to get back, and possibly not as observant as usual. Another example of confusing signage here.

After a luxurious 8 minute shower at the Mather Campground facilities, I set up camp and spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the AC at Market Plaza, exploring the Yavapai Point Museum and enjoying a final sunset. Tomorrow, I'll finish up my two week trip with the long drive back to LA.

I'm up and out before dawn, driving south to Williams and west on I-40.

Authentic Burma Shave signs on Route 66 near Seligman AZ

I decide to break up the monotony of freeway driving by jumping on old Route 66 for a 100 mile stretch from Seligman to Kingman. Seligman has a playful historic district along the highway with old time shops decorated with lots of signs and memorabilia from the 40's and 50's. One stretch of Rt. 66 has several miles of authentic Burma-Shave replica signs, clever rhymes that were seen across the country from the Thirties to Fifties. Each message is made up of 4-6 signs placed 100 yards apart and say things like He tried to cross / As fast train neared / Death didn't draft him / He volunteered / Burma-Shave. Apparently, they're just for nostalgia as Burma Shave went out of business decades ago.

Ten hours of driving and I'm back home. Total distance covered on this trip: 1,548 miles.

Info

Grand Canyon National Park is divided in to two sections for tourism.The South Rim is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The North Rim is open mid-May to mid-October.

Admission is $25 per private vehicle for one week.

Camping in the park on the South Rim is restricted to established campgrounds. Camping fees are in addition to entrance fees, and are charged per night. Campsite reservations fill up fast; make reservations as far in advance as you can. Reservations can be made up to 6 months in advance.

Map of Bright Angel canyon

National Park Service Grand Canyon website: www.nps.gov/grca
General Visitor Information: 928.638.7888
Backcountry Information Center: 928.638.7875 1-5 pm Mon.-Fri.
Camping reservations: www.recreation.gov

South Rim camping:
Mather Campground is reservable. $18/night
Desert View campground is first-come, first-served.
Camping "at-large" is permitted in the national forest outside the park.

Pictures

Getting there
Sunset at Horseshoe Bend near Page AZ. It's 1000 ft. down to the Colorado River		The Grand Canyon of the Colorado River from the east side of the South Rim. The river runs east (right) to west (left) in the center.		The rustic Watchtower at Desert View visitor center was finished in 1932.	The interior is decorated with native art and murals.

View west from Moran Point

Mule deer are large and in charge. They have no fear of humans or cars and wander nonchalantly through populated areas...

...Apparently they haven't been reading the sign.

Grandview Point, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

On the trail
Starting down the S. Kaibab trail at Yaki Point. It's 7 miles to the river.	On the way down, I chat with an interpretive Ranger, who's commuting to her job - a week at Phantom Ranch. Perfect weather. It's often hazy, she says.	Coming off the rim, the trail is steep switchbacks and slippery, then levels out crossing a plateau. O'Neill Butte at right and the North Rim beyond.	There are quite a few day hikers on the trail, making an early down-and-back to one of the river overlooks before the heat sets in.	After a record wet season, the canyon is still cloaked in much of its Spring greenery. After sunrise, it quickly goes from warm to hot. You're advised not to hike from 11am-4pm to avoid heatstroke.
The temperature at the river is regularly 10-15 degrees hotter than the rim. As the sun rises and the trail descends, you'll feel the heat build. The switchbacks below O'neill Butte.	It will reach 107 degrees at Phantom Ranch today. Rounding a bend, the tired, heavily burdened guy in front of me jokingly exclaims "There's more?!"	Beyond the Butte, only river-bound hikers.	A wrangler leads a mule train up from Phantom Ranch. These aren't little donkeys. They are bigger and stronger than horses. Stock use only the South Kaibab trail, not the Bright Angel trail. This is about the halfway point.	The mules carry all the supplies and food for the park service staff at Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel campground, as well as tourists and their gear. They pack their own feed too, as there's no pasture down there. Coming up must be lighter, but they still haul out trash.	Looking south up the mountain from the Tipoff area and a second mule train carrying a group up from Phantom Ranch.
The river, hidden from view much of the hike, is now part of the scenery. Three yellow specks are rafters.	The South Kaibab trail and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon across the river.	The final leg to the lower canyon is a steep descent with big dropoffs.	From a lookout point, a nice view of the bend where green Bright Angel canyon joins the Colorado River. This image with labels is in the Info section.	John Wesley Powell's 1869 expedition found clear water entering the muddy Colorado here and later gave it the name Bright Angel creek. Two suspension bridges serve Bright Angel- the South Kaibab bridge at right which serves its namesake trail, and the Silver Bridge in the distance, which carries the Bright Angel trail. The South Kaibab bridge, with it's wooden planks, is the only one built for stock to cross.
View south up the mountain just descended from the north shore of the South Kaibab bridge. You pass through a tunnel to get on it.	Ancient Indian ruins above Boat Beach still appear much like Powell found them 140 years ago.	Bright Angel Creek is a welcome oasis after a long, hot descent from the rim. There are 31 shaded tent sites along the cool creek as well as two large group sites. Phantom Ranch is 1/4 mile upstream. View south toward the river.	The Park Service encourages hikers to loll about in the stream, building pools in which to cool off. The stream will revert to it's natural state in the winter. By mid-afternoon, the thermometer shows 107 degrees.	Silver Bridge takes the Bright Angel trail across the fast-moving Colorado River.	The next morning begins at 3:30am, hiking with headlamp in the dark to beat the coming heat. It's 9.5 mi. to the top. By dawn, I'm halfway to Indian Gardens at this waterfall.
Near Indian Gardens, a popular campground destination at the halfway mileage. It's advised to get to this level early in the morning to avoid the scorching heat in the lower canyon.	The sun paints the canyon walls above Indian Gardens with brilliant light. By 7:00am, it's already getting hot and the biggest part of the elevation gain is still ahead.	The final climb out of the center plateau is 2 miles of endless switchbacks. The trail is soon busy with dozens hiking up from Indian Gardens and hundreds day-tripping down from the South Rim.	June morning colors on the Bright Angel trail.	A group of a dozen backpackers (bottom center) slowly trudge up the trail beneath the soaring South Rim cliffs.	One of two tunnels on the Bright Angel trail.
This 1st tunnel means you are very close to the trailhead on top of the Rim.	I reach the top just before 11am, almost 7 hours later. A final look north at the route to the river.

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