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Yosemite Valley bottom to topYosemite National Park, California

June 11-14, 2009
3 days, 3 essential hikes get the best of the Valley's spectacular waterfalls and cliff-edge thrills
Words & images ©2009 Larry Sullivan. All rights reserved.

Hikes Index

Overview

Yosemite Valley offers the superlatives we crave in our brief escapes from mundane everyday life - highest measured waterfall in North America (Yosemite Falls), most famous rock wall climb (El Capitan), sheerest cliff in North America and most dangerous non-technical climb in the national park system (Halfdome). Although another infamous distinction - the busiest area of our most visited national parks - there are still plenty of opportunities to be enchanted by the natural magic of Yosemite Valley, even in the midst of summer high season. Here are three hikes which every Yosemite hiking enthusiast should experience, combining steep and challenging terrain with adrenaline-fueled climbs to dizzying cliff-edge panoramas.

Mist Trail
The Mist Trail is a scenic wonder and an engineering marvel for all other national park trails to be judged by. The staple of Yosemite dayhikes, the Mist Trail is a steep climb from the valley floor up the dramatic Merced River canyon to the top of two gigantic waterfalls - Vernal Falls (1.5 miles) and Nevada Falls (3.5 miles). This trail is the most popular (and most crowded) in Yosemite for good reason - the payoff of experiencing these two impressive cascades up close has always been Yosemite's top draw and one you shouldn't miss.

The wide paved path begins at Happy Isles and climbs steadily under big shade trees beneath towering canyon walls. After it crosses the river on a stone bridge and beyond the intersection with the John Muir Trail, the grade gets steeper and eventually becomes a series of steps blasted out of granite, and finally a narrow, single-file ledge for the last few hundred feet.

Vernal Falls
The area along the river for a quarter mile above Vernal Falls is the perfect respite for relaxing beside the river or gathering energy to continue. The Emerald Pool, a small lake in a wide spot in the river and the Silver Apron, it's smoothly sloped granite bank, are downstream of a dramatic (and dangerous) waterslide where the Merced rushes down a long granite chute.

Nevada Falls
Many climb no higher than Vernal, but if you're energetic, you'll cross the next bridge and ascend two more steep miles up countless switchbacks to Nevada Falls. Thundering over a long, high cliff, majestic Nevada can be heard for miles across the entire valley. Atop the plateau, the river is slower and lazier and you'll find plenty of space to spread out on the smooth granite and enjoy the view and even take a swim.

Yosemite Falls Trail
This strenuous 3.5 mile hike climbs to the top of the highest waterfall in Yosemite and puts you right at edge of the cliff near the lip. Not for the unfit, the Yosemite Falls Trail is all up, all the way and will have you huffing and puffing just minutes after striking out from the trailhead at Camp 4. On the way up, you'll be treated to some of the best views of Halfdome and east Yosemite Valley. There are two railed overlooks at the top and many nice spots to soak it all in. The Yosemite Falls trail intersects at the top with another that continues east over a bridge to Yosemite Point and on to North Dome for more striking views of the Valley, or west to the top of El Capitan.

Pohono Trail
This mostly unknown gem follows the south rim of Yosemite Canyon with dizzying views thousands of feet into the valley below. Most people don't know about the Pohono Trail and chances are, you'll have plenty of opportunity for solitude. Beginning at the Wawona Tunnel Overlook parking lot, the Pohono Trail climbs almost 2500 ft. to the top of the canyon then follows the rim 13 miles to Glacier Point, crossing Bridalveil Creek and passing numerous overlook precipices - Inspiration Point, Stanford Point, Crocker Point, Dewey Point and Taft Point. The views across the canyon to the north rim, El Capitan and Yosemite Falls are some of the most magnificent the park has to offer. Near Glacier Point, take a detour up to Sentinel Dome for one of the Yosemite's most sweeping and unsung vistas.

Four Mile Trail
One of the most spectacular trails in the park is this hike down from Glacier Point to the valley floor, a drop of over 4000 ft. The path winds around giant trees and magical rock formation under towering cliffs, always on the edge of the canyon face with yawning dropoffs far below. Unless you have the energy for a very strenuous round trip, you'll need to plan ahead on how you'll get back to your car as the shuttle bus from the valley ($25) can fill up weeks in advance.

The other Yosemite Valley hiking experience you shouldn't miss is, of course, climbing Halfdome, which is covered here in an earlier Yosemite trip. The Mist Trail hike will give you a taste of the first half of that trip.

Trip Report

This was a quickly-planned 3 day trip to discover some of Yosemite Valley that I had yet to hike - namely Yosemite Falls, the highest and arguably the most spectacular falls in the park and the highest in the USA, if you count the upper and lower falls; and also the south rim of the canyon, which I'd read offered amazing valley views. On my "rest day", I hiked the 7 mile roundtrip Mist Trail.

How to score a Yosemite Valley campsite for a spur-of-the-moment weekend trip

The walk-in queue for a site at Camp 4 at 8:30am

Finding a place to stay in Yosemite Valley is always a challenge, as the Valley campground reservations for the year are filled up shortly after they become available at the beginning of the year. All the Valley campgrounds were full. All the campgrounds on either side of the Valley in and out of the park were full. The campgrounds on Tioga Road weren't yet open because of snow. But Camp 4, the walk-in backpackers campground (you park in a common lot and carry your gear to your campsite) has a certain percentage of first-come, first-served spaces available each day. Once you're in, you can stay an extended time. Being the popular park it is, the line for these coveted spots in the epicenter of Yosemite begins before dawn. You're not allowed to camp overnight waiting in line, but that's essentially what people do - sleeping bags and camp stoves. Since Yosemite is about 300 miles from Los Angeles, I wasn't feeling too confident that I could arrive in the park at a time when I'd have good chance to be in line and get a spot, so I reserved 4 nights at the nearest campground just a few miles south of the Yosemite's southern entrance: Summerdale campground in Fish Camp, operated by the National Forest Service, $20/night. Fish Camp is an hour drive through twisty mountain roads to Yosemite Valley, so it's a difficult commute for the Valley hikes I'd planned. I'd drive up from Los Angeles after work, stay the first night in Fish camp, then get an early start, drive to Yosemite Valley and get in the queue at Camp 4 by 6:30-7:00am. If I couldn't get in Camp 4 the first morning, I'd do my dayhike, then commute back to Fish Camp for the evening and try again the next morning and the next.

My plan worked. I was in line at the Camp 4 booth at 6:30, where there were 10-12 peops queued. By the time the ranger arrived and opened up at 8am, there were already 60-70 in line. I got a spot, called and cancelled my remaining Summerdale campground nights and got in to Yosemite Valley at the start of the summer season without planning a trip at the beginning of the year. A half hour later, when I took the photo at left, after I'd hauled my stuff from the car and set up camp, the queue was much longer but people were still getting spots. Probably 50-60 got walk-in sites at Camp 4 that morning. It's a big campground. Note: it took 4 months and numerous follow-up calls and emails to get my refund back. You may have to write off the cancelled reservations as a loss.

Camp 4, zoo
Camp 4 is somewhat of a zoo in the summer, crowded with backpackers, rock climbers and dayhikers from all over the country, all over the world. There's a kind of music festival vibe because there are no cars, no RV's, and generally, very few children. It's basically a flat spot in the dirt the size of 6-7 football fields, with lots of shade trees beneath a tall peak just west of Yosemite Falls. Each 100x100 foot campsite has a communal fire pit, picnic table and several steel bear-proof food storage containers (bear boxes). Six groups/six tents are assigned to each site and you share with whoever is next to get in. There is actually room for more than six tents but thankfully six is all you have to endure. There is one bathroom building and dishwashing area for everyone to share. This is an active bear visitation area and there are no trash cans, just some bear-proof dumpsters through the woods at the south end of camp. The parking lot at the east end of the camp is notorious for bear break-ins and federal law allows for a hefty fine if rangers see food left in your car. A few feet away from where I parked, a park employee was inspecting a new Chrysler Pacifica broken into just hours earlier. Apparently, a mother bear is demonstrating to a pair of cubs how to break in to cars. If they smell food in the trunk, they break a window, claw through the back seat cushion into the trunk panel and get it. The employee checked all the lots every morning. There were several break-ins somewhere in the park every day or two. I thought of all the times that I'd dropped some irresistible-smelling fries in the crack between my seat and console that I couldn't vacuum out even if I wanted. Note to self: vacuum the car thoroughly before leaving it parked in bear country.

Camp 4, birthplace of rock climbing
Camp 4 has an exalted history in Yosemite as the original rock climbers camp. This is ground zero for the rock climbing movement that began in the 1950's, when climbers roped up and first conquered the sheer face of nearby El Capitan, Halfdome and others. Because there are more towering sheer rock walls with easy access here than anywhere else, Yosemite Valley was a mecca for climbers from around the world to test their skills and mettle at this dangerous, new adrenaline sport. Many techniques and equipment now considered standard were invented and tested here. Each successive season saw new records set and old methods discarded. Over the years, the record time to climb El Capitan went from weeks to days to hours. Every season, new records were set in a variety of categories - team climbs, solo climbs, first female climbs, free-climbs, free solo climbs, all based out of Camp 4.

In 1975, a major flood devastated Camp 4 and many other parts of the Valley and Park Service decided to relocate the campground to a less impactful part of the Valley. But there was an uproar among the climbing community, who rallied support for keeping the campground where it is, even obtaining historical landmark protection as the birthplace of the climbing movement. In 2003, Camp 4 was listed on the National Register of Historic Places for "its significant association with the growth and development of rock climbing in the Yosemite Valley during the 'golden years' of pioneer mountaineering". And so it remains as an icon of history - primitive, crowded, boisterous, alive.

Day 1: Yosemite Falls & south rim trails

The trail up to Yosemite Falls begins in Camp 4. (The easier trail to Lower Yosemite Falls begins north of Yosemite Lodge). It's is a very steep and strenuous 5 mile, 3 hour climb to the top of the falls, especially in the heat of the summer. Overtaking others climbing up through the mosquito-filled woods and switchbacks, it's apparent that many exhausted, poorly equipped tourists weren't aware of how steep and difficult a climb it is. The view

A single railing tests your nerves

east across the lush valley is an impressive sweep from Halfdome out to the Clark Range in the distant southeast of the park to Glacier Point. Looking up from the halfway point to the top of the awesome waterfall and the immense wall of sheer granite on the left/west, it's difficult to imagine how a trail will be able climb there. As you continue, you discover the second half of the trail is even steeper than the first, climbing up switchbacks

The bridge across Yosemite Creek to Yosemite Point

in a forested crevice between this wall and the falls. Near the top is an intersection with trails to the summit of El Capitan to the west and North Dome to the east. In the rare instance that there aren't others atop the flat summit area at trails end, one might overlook the best part of the viewing area - climbing down steps below the lip of the cliff to several railed overlooks close to the waters edge. Climbing down to the lowest viewing platform requires gripping a single handrail on some slippery footing. Feeling the cool spray from Yosemite Creek as it makes its awesome leap off the cliff into the abyss, and the dizzying views to the valley far below surrounded by giant walls of granite are an impressive payoff for this strenuous climb.

After lunch, I continued east on the path to North Dome. A wooden bridge over Yosemite Creek offers another angle to view the water rushing over the incredible 3000 ft. dropoff. The trail climbs high promontories to overlooks between Yosemite Falls and Northdome, then around the mountain to the east for unique views of Halfdome, before continuing the 2 additional miles up and down another mountain to North Dome.

Above Yosemite Point, with some hikers posing cliffside

From the lookout, I maneuvered around the cliffs to watch a climbing duo summit the Lost Arrow Spire Tip, a towering obelisk of granite east of Yosemite Falls. Ascending to another high vantage point and after 5 hours out, I was ready to return. It would take close to 4 hours to get back, about the time it would start to get dark. Hours down from the summit, I passed the usual groups of unprepared young people with summit fever inquiring about the distance to the top.

The Sierra has so many species of unique and colorful flowers

With little water for the strenuous climb, no extra clothes if the weather turns, and no flashlights for the return down the dangerous cliffside trail in the closing light, they were obviously counting on using their cell phones to call for rescue if their ignorance got them in trouble.

Back at Camp 4, I mixed with other hikers and some climbers at the picnic table. I never spent time around climbers and didn't know of their reputation for being elitist and somewhat arrogant. But I found out in 3 days it's not a myth. Apparently, engaging in the rush of death-defying cliff-scaling leads one to feel those who don't experience the thrill as somewhat less in tune with life.. or something akin to that. I suppose I can understand that - I get a little of that "you-don't-know-unless-you-do-it" feeling from adventuring into the wilderness several days from the nearest road. None of the climbers at my campsite were unfriendly, just a little cliquish and reserved at befriending non-climbers.

Day 2: Mist trail to Vernal and Nevada Falls; Tioga Road to Tuolumne Meadow

Climbing the Mist Trail and experiencing close-up these two immense falls launching huge volumes of spring snow melt runoff into the air is one of the most thrilling experiences Yosemite has to offer. The warm sun and blue sky welcomed the usual crowds to this most popular hike in the park. I left my car in Camp 4's lot and took the shuttle from Yosemite Lodge to Happy Isles, the beginning of the Mist Trail, which is also the beginning of the 212 mile John Muir Trail (JMT) to Mt. Whitney in eastern California. The trail winds up along and above the rushing Merced River on a wide path of carefully inlaid stones under a canopy of oaks and pines. Lofty peaks tower above the canyon walls. After a bridge crossing 3/4 mi. up, the JMT splits off and follows the opposite bank up. The Mist Trail gets steeper and twistier the higher you go. I'm always impressed with the amount of work it took engineers to blast this path out of the sheer granite canyon wall. Vernal Falls is heard long before it's seen, especially now in the spring when the Merced is running big and fast. The mist from the falls swirls around the canyon walls and down the steep steps blasted out of the granite. As you climb the slippery stairs around the final corner, this wondrous spectacle of natures power presents itself in full glory, leaping over a 300 ft. cliff and crashing with thunderous echoes into boulder filled pools below, then gathering itself together and rushing off down the canyon. The last few hundred yards of the trail before the Vernal Falls plateau are very steep, and then, after a narrow, single-file traverse above a steep drop-off, you're on top.

For many, the railed lookout ledge atop Vernal Falls is the destination. Continuing up the trail from here can be confusing as the path climbs up through

The Merced rushes down a waterslide into the Emerald Pool

a large mound of smooth granite and the isn't easy to discern. Look for others ahead. A few hundred yards above Vernal Falls is the Emerald Pool, a wide spot in the Merced where the water takes a break from it's restless plunge down the mountain and forms a beautiful, serene lake. Just above the Emerald Pool is the the Silver Apron, a lengthy expanse of smooth white granite where the river widens and thins and shoots over at high speed. It's a popular spot for sunbathing and relaxing on the flat stones along the fast-moving river banks, but also a dangerous place for the unwary as the smooth rocks can be deceptively slippery.

From the footbridge upstream of the Silver Apron, the steep climb up to Nevada Falls begins in earnest. The first part of this segment winds through tall pine forest, which offers welcome respite from the sun, but the canyon widens and the trail soon loses it's protective canopy. The thunder of Nevada Falls echoes down the canyon, but it takes many stairs and over 1000 ft. of vertical up the mountain before the dramatic spectacle presents itself through a break in the thick forest below the falls. Nevada is much higher than Vernal and the cliff it flows over is part of a long ridge, so the sense of height is more pronounced. As with Vernal before it, the last 1/4 mile to the plateau above the falls is the steepest. The switchbacks climb up a narrow crevasse and deposit you on top of the cliff several hundred yards from the falls. This is the end of the Mist Trail. There's a bathroom at the intersection with the JMT. As you follow the cliff edge toward the top of the falls, there is an easily-missed railed overlook down to the right. Most are content to view the cascade from the wooden bridge above the river but there are places to risk getting intimate with the dramatic phenomenon, on stones at the very edge of the precipice, a few feet from where the entire river hurls itself into space.

Hiking error faux pas
My plan was to the climb down to the Illilouette Creek basin below Glacier Point and back to the Valley from there, so I headed out the Panorama Trail. But I didn't bring my map and overestimated the simplicity of the route because I'd come that way last year and assumed I could retrace my path easily enough. An over-simplified wooden park map on a sign near Nevada Falls showed it would be an easy route to get on, but I must have overlooked something and missed my connection. I thought I was on my way to the Illilouette Creek but I was actually on the JMT back to the Mist Trail again - which was fine, as I hadn't been on this section before - and it would lead me back to where I wanted to go. I was tired anyway. But unfortunately, the point man of large group of heavily-laden, map-free backpacking guys took my word that I was sure this was the trail to Illilouette and they all followed behind me a long ways down the very steep mountain with their giant packs before I realized I wasn't where I thought I was. Fortunately, I was far ahead of them when I discovered my error and wouldn't see them again! Note to hikers: never trust miles of your trip to well-meaning advice from other hikers, especially if you're making a decision for an entire group! Major faux pas. Bring a map! I bet those guys were pissed at the one who'd talked to me, but in my defense, I did suggest to the fellow how to lighten up by visiting backpackinglight.com.

Moon above Merced River

The JMT from Vernal Falls to the Mist Trail is heavily used by stock animals carrying tourists and the entire length is covered with stinking piles of dung. In sections, it was so disgusting trying to find a safe spot through steep switchbacks without stepping in it, I nicknamed it the John Manure Trail. Because it's accommodating to horses, there are more switchbacks to lessen the grade, but there are extremely steep sections where I passed exhausted, unhappy hikers struggling in the heat and stench. Several horse trains with overweight tourons were also climbing.

I took the shuttle back to camp and still had the afternoon for exploring, so I took a drive up to Tuolumne Meadow. I needed to find out about the trailhead and parking information for my two upcoming hikes to Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne (July '09) and the Clark Range (Aug. '09). The weather in the Valley was partly sunny but warm and beautiful. Up Tioga Road, it was overcast and cold, with snow still on the ground in places. The Tuolumne Meadows ranger I spoke with said it had been overcast and grey for weeks up there. I drove back to the Valley and enjoyed the last of the last light on the valley walls. I hung out below El Capitan for a while, enjoying spotting the lights of all the climbers high on the wall. Back at Camp 4, I got to visit with some of the others at my site. We told stories and passed around a guitar. One of the climbers would be scaling El Capitan the next few days, a couple was climbing Halfdome and my biggest, most adventurous hike of the trip is tomorrow, so we all turn in early, listening to a loud group of Chileans (I was told) singing folk songs until late.

Day 3: Pohono trail from Wawona Tunnel to Glacier Point, 4 Mile Trail to Yosemite Valley

Today would be a hike of over 23 miles along some of the most spectacular scenery in Yosemite: an extended trek atop the south rim of Yosemite

Pohono Trailhead at Wawona Tunnel Overlook parking lot

Valley's canyon wall, encompassing all the major overlooks between Wawona Tunnel and Glacier Point, a 2 mile side trip to the top of Snetinel Dome, and then down the Four Mile trail to the Valley. Then I'd have to find a ride back to my car.

The Pohono trailhead begins at the famous Hwy. 42 Wawona Tunnel overlook parking lots, the one south of the highway, between the road and the mountain, at an unnoticed set of stairs. I was on the trail at 7am on a cool, partly cloudy morning, climbing up the steep forested slope almost 1500 feet of vertical in the first hour. Right away, I was sweating and the mosquitoes were swarming at every shady spot. This is a tough climb, but good to get up the steep part before the heat of the day set in. Up 1500, then 2500 feet of altitude from

The big crossings have bridges, but it's easy to get wet at others

the trailhead, the trail winds along the edge of immense granite peaks that form the south wall of Yosemite Valley. There are series of named high points above sheer drop-offs along the way, usually spaced between one half and one mile apart along the trail. Each lookout point offers a unique perpective of the Merced River far below and the dramatic waterfalls that fill it, with views across the valley to El Capitan, Halfdome and Clouds Rest in the eastern distance. One by one, I came upon Inspiration Point, Stanford Point, Dewey Point, Taft Point, Sentinal Dome and finally Glacier Point. Between the points, the trail goes back into the forest to circumnavigate the giant crevices and deep canyons along the face.

Only one other hiker was out that morning, a fellow from Nevada City, CA, whom I'd met at Inspiration Point. He'd come up here to camp and explained how easy it was to get a Wilderness Permit to stay up here when most of the trailhead quotas in all of Yosemite

I thought this rock formation near Taft Point looked like a giant bird

were full. At Stanford Point, we got the map out and identified many of the peaks and each of the amazing waterfalls. Some, like Ribbon Falls in a hidden canyon on the west side of El Capitan, can only be seen from above as the thick forest blocks views from the valley. Ribbon is dry by early summer. The high, cliff-edge points make memorable stops, and there are plenty of well-used campsites, but there is no water on the ridge line, so you'd need to pack it up. Since then, whenever I'm in the Valley at night, I always look up to the dark south canyon rims at night and can usually spot a campfire or two along the ridge.

By late morning, the weather turned moody. I crossed Bridalveil Creek on a large wooden bridge, wondering how far I would have to bushwhack cross-country to reach the top of the falls. There's no trail marked to the top of Bridalveil but certainly hikers have made their way there. As I reached Taft Point, a fast-moving cold front was blowing in low over the cliffs and the sky grew ominous. The scene reminded me of an asian watercolor painting - tall peaks poking out of a sea of swirling clouds, with glimpses of a river valley far below. You couldn't tell where the earth ended and the sky began. It started misting and sprinkling, then turned in to an all

Unforgettable views around each bend

out hail storm. I came down from the exposed cliff area and took a lunch break under a tree. The weather moved on as quickly as it came and dramatic sunlight filtered into the valley as holes of intense blue sky appeared through the low-slung clouds, revealing towering cumulus clouds above.

After the surprise storm, I had a chance to explore Taft Point, which is halfway between Wawona Tunnel and Glacier Point, rising high above the central Yosemite Valley.

Towering giant Sugar Pine

Although it's easily accessed by trailheads a mile away on the Glacier Point road, I was surprised to find there were probably two dozen people there, given the inclement weather. Near the point are incredible deep fissures - crevasses that seem to run the entire height of the cliff down to the valley. Back on the trail in the woods, I came across several deer who couldn't be bothered to move as I came within several feet of them.

Between Taft Point and Sentinel Dome, majestic views across the valley to Yosemite Falls open up. At this time of year, Yosemite creek is pumping full volume over the precipice, 2000 feet into a lower plateau, where it separates into multiple streams that gather and fall again as Lower Yosemite Falls. It's a mesmerizingly beautiful scene to observe from high on this cliff, listening to the thunder of crashing water miles away across the chasm. The Pohono Trail offers what must be the best view of Yosemite Falls in the park.

The sunny weather held up until I reached the mile-long trail to Sentinal Dome, when the wind and mist picked up again. Unsung Sentinel Dome is one of the parks highest

Mountain guide atop Sentinel Dome

peaks, on par with Halfdome, and offers spectacular 360 degree views of the entire valley, including the giant Vernal and Nevada Falls in the Merced Canyon. It's only a 1.5 mile hike up from Glacier Point, one of Yosemite's most popular and impressive drive-up overlooks, so there was quite a crowd there. After a short time admiring the view, I hiked the last segment of the trail down to the drive-up park at Glacier Point. My camera's battery was low and my last shot was of the summit of Halfdome covered in dark clouds in a misty rain. It was about 3:45, the same time, as I later found, of a fatal accident involving a man falling from the Halfdome cables right there across the valley. A young couple, my neighbors sharing campsite #23 at Camp 4 were directly under him on the cables when he lost his footing on the slick granite and went over the edge. Here's the story I wrote about it. I later learned that the couple had become engaged atop Halfdome just before the accident.

Moving quickly out of the crowded and exposed Glacier Point park, I located the Four Mile trail on the valley side of the concession stand and began the long descent through the woods to the Valley floor.

Four Mile trail
Four Mile trail (actually lengthened to 4.5 miles) isn't the most well-known but it's an astounding feat of engineering as impressive as the Mist Trail to Halfdome. It's an extremely steep system of switchbacks along and below sheer cliffs thousands of feet above the lush, green valley far below. The level of difficulty is above average to descend and

Many fearless deer up here

strenuous to climb. Few would elect to hike it as a round trip so it requires planning and logistics to return to your car. (I planned to to bum a ride from a camp neighbor or hitchhike back) I was looking forward to enjoying this awesome descent through an ancient, quiet forest in the moody mist of late afternoon by myself - a contemplative end to a long, all-day hike, and an incredible hiking trip in Yosemite. But a large, loud group of one adult, several teenagers and 9-10 pre-teen boys were starting down the trail just after me. I walked fast to get away from them, and once around a bend, even ran to put as much distance between them and me. But one of the teenagers and two smaller kids began running down the path, yelling, whooping it up and calling at each other like this was a play field at the local park, running past me, stopping, then racing past me again, slipping on the slick rocks, cutting trails. On and on it went, leap-frogging me for ten, fifteen, twenty minutes. I was getting ticked off. I consider the grandeur of these mountains and forest precious and somewhat sacrosanct. Being here is my church and my communion and it took considerable effort and expense to come visit. One of the Park rules is respect others and their right to enjoy the park. Except for this group of obnoxious loudmouths, I'd have the beautiful, peaceful trail to myself, like I had for the last 9 hours. As their voices rang out, echoing all over the mist-soaked cliffs and forest, I fantasized about shoving all 3 off the edge. Their group was far behind, they're running down a steep, slippery cliff-edge trail in the rain... Who'd know? Finally, after 20 minutes of ruining my hike, they sidetracked to an overlook and I pushed on fast. They were just kids, and didn't know better, but people who hike in natural areas should instill in children to respect others right to solace.

The Four Mile trail is a spectacular way to end the Pohono Trail hike. This amazing cliff-edged journey from dizzying heights to the lush valley below is just something you can't experience without coming to Yosemite. In places, the trail looks like fairy-tale art, a ribbon of stone and dirt wrapping around vertical cliff faces beneath a canopy of ancient trees lodged in crevices and giant boulders. The misty shroud of sprinkling rain and light showers added to the mystique. The Four Mile trail is all cliffside, all downhill, and some parts are extremely steep and unforgiving on unprepared knees. I'm certain jogging has decreased the pressure and aching knees I used to get from such descents. Trekking poles removed more discomfort, and were essential in the slippery conditions. Over the next hour and a half, I passed 3-4 couples of hikers, none of whom had poles, all of whom were having difficulty on the slick path.

Toward the bottom, the trail wrapped around immense building-sized boulders that had obviously calved from above. I wondered of the noise and energy release involved in getting these mammoth stones down here in the valley from their cliff-edge homes. Maybe some of these were dislodged in an earthquake, maybe the same earthquake John Muir experienced when he wrote of rushing outside to experience the thunder of rockfall throughout the valley. The trail comes out in a meadow on the south loop road between Hwy. 42 and the turnoff for Yosemite Lodge. There's a bus that could take me back to Camp 4, but this was the first and Camp 4 was the last stop of a long circuit that would take 40 minutes around the valley. So I walked the half mile back to camp, cleaned up some, then hitched a ride back to my car. Since everyone's on vacation, it was easy to convince the nice people who gave me a lift to go miles out of their way and take me up the mountain, right to my car. I offered cash for gas, but they refused it. I forgot to tell them that on the way back, due to the Valleys one-way road system, they'd have to go back almost to where they first picked me up to get back on the road out.

Day 4: Drive out

I've made a tradition of my last morning Yosemite. I have a big breakfast at Yosemite Lodge dining hall, then rent a bike and have a long, relaxing ride up to Mirror Lake and around the entire valley. The morning was awesome, bright and clear and beautiful, the air filled with the fragrance of flower-filled green meadows, the peaks around the valley as crisp and defined against the brilliant blue sky as I've ever seen - the best that Yosemite could offer me. The exquisite light on Halfdome, towering above Mirror Lake always fills me with awe and I was seriously regretting not being able to take a photo. I made sure to bring an extra camera battery and memory chip after that.

Leaving Yosemite, I took a different way home this time - the El Portal exit out of the park on Hwy. 140, which follows the rushing Merced mile after mile out of the mountains into the foothills of Mariposa County. Then I drove Hwy. 49 through the quaint town of Mariposa before connecting to the Fresno highway again further south at Oakhurst. The rolling Merced River splashing along under the vibrant colors and texture of the rock faces against the high, rolling hills are worth a detour to see.

Info / Maps / Links

The entrance fee for Yosemite is $20 per car, valid for seven days. The gates are open 24/7 and if it's after 8pm when you arrive and no one is at the booth, you're supposed to pay when you leave.

Parking
Pass holders can park in any Yosemite parking lot free for the length of your stay. Yosemite is an active bear alert zone and you are required to remove all food and scented items from your car into provided steel bear boxes. Yosemite Falls and Mist Trail hikers can take the shuttle to the closest stops for their trailheads, Camp 4 and Happy Isles, respectively. Camp 4 has its own parking lot for Camp 4 permit holders. Mist Trail hikers can park in the Happy Isles parking lot in Curry Village.Pohono Trail hikers can park in Wawona Tunnel Overlook parking lot or take the Glacier Point shuttle from the Valley Transit Center, $25, reservations required.

Permits
These day hikes don't require permits.

When to go
Although Yosemite is open year round, much of the park is snow-covered and inaccessible from early November until Spring. The falls are the most dramatic during Spring snow melt April-June. Nights get cold then, sometimes down to freezing, and mosquitoes are swarming. By August, the major rivers flow at a fraction of their Spring volume and Valley lows average 50 degrees, highs up to 100.

Directions
From Los Angeles, it's approximately 300 miles to Yosemites south entrance on Hwy. 41 out of Fresno and it usually takes me less than 4.5 hours.

Yosemite Falls Trail	Mist Trail	Pohono Trail, Four Mile Trail
View Yosemite Falls in a larger map	View Mist Trail in a larger map	View Pohono Trail / 4 Mile Trail in a larger map

Yosemite National Park main website
Recreation.gov Yosemite campground reservations Toll-free: 877.444.6777
Yosemite National Park Rangers telephone: 209.372.0200
National Weather Service (NOAA.org) Forecast for Yosemite Valley

Pictures

Day 1 - Yosemite Falls Trail

The trail to the top of Yosemite Falls begins in Camp 4. You can't see the falls for the first 2 formidably steep miles up.	You round the mountain and the falls appear in full glory and crashing thunder. But it's still a long way up.	In late Spring, the Yosemite Creek is in full flow and the falls are at their most dramatic.	A narrow chute full of switchbacks is the final climb	The amazing vertical wall of granite towering over the final switchbacks
At the top, a well-deserved rest at a panoramic viewpoint. South across the valley is Sentinel Dome above Sentinel Rock.	The Yosemite Creek a few hundred feet before the drop.	The first of two railed viewing platforms you can climb down to	Leaning over the edge of the rail looking down at the rainbow at the base of the falls. Where the stream disappears at top is where Lower Yosemite Falls begins.	You can see the trail up is high on the ridge with steep dropoffs	Steps lead to a flat spot above the falls but a close-up view of the lip is blocked by the slippery terrain
The second viewing platform is through the rocks toward the river	After climbing to Yosemite Point, I clambered around the cliff to shoot this climber atop Lost Arrow Spire. Don't know if you can tell, but it's a long way down!	The view east and south from the cliffs above Yosemite Point. From left to right, in the distance far left is Cloud's Rest, North Dome in front of Halfdome, then Mt. Starr-King poking into the clouds and Glacier Point at right.		A unique perch up the mountain from Yosemite Point	On the return trip, I climb down closer to the edge. In My First Summer in the Sierra, John Muir said he lowered himself down to a tiny platform directly above the dizzying drop, from which he wasn't sure he could get back up. He may have stood on the tiny ledge at right above the precipice
The late afternoon sun on Yosemite Falls	Last look back before the trail turns around the mountain	Big clouds blow in every afternoon, adding drama to the light	Some of the best views in Yosemite Valley are from the hard-won vista points along the Yosemite Falls trail		Sentinel Dome and Sentinel Rock on the south rim, one of the most amazingly vertical formations in the valley

Day 2 - Mist Trail

The Mist Trail climbs beside the Merced beneath towering canyon walls	Hikers climb the long series of steps into the misty spray of Vernal Falls	A rare flat spot to pause between giant conifers	The last few hundred feet to the top of Vernal Falls are along this narrow, single file ledge.	The platform viewpoint atop Vernal Falls	Looking down at the Mist Trail and the rushing Merced River from atop Vernal Falls
Two more hard-won miles up and Nevada Falls roars into the picture	Nevada Falls drops off a wide, high cliff. The John Muir Trail follows this cliff and drops down the far side of the river	The bridge over the top of Nevada Falls is as close as some want to get to the edge. There are no restraints to keep you from testing your mettle.		I hope he was giving his friend the car keys as next he climbed down 15 feet lower to the very edge.	Leaning over the rail of the viewing platform looking down
Watching, listening, feeling the rapture of tons of water leaping into space - mesmerizing.		Hikers make their way up the final steep stairs to the top	Liberty Cap above Nevada Falls	The back/southeast side of Halfdome (L), Mt. Broderick and Liberty Cap above Nevada Falls from the John Muir Trail

Day 3 - Pohono Trail, Four Mile Trail

Dawn at the Pohono trailhead at Wawona Tunnel Overlook. At left, El Capitan, at right Bridalveil Falls.	East from Inspiration Point. Halfdome is below the lowest of the hanging pine cones.	At Stanford Point, another hiker pointed out several landmarks you can't see from the valley	Crocker Point	Near Crocker Point, through the cliffs to Bridalveil Falls and El Capitan
Dewey Point. In the foreground, the peaks of Cathedral Rocks. The small waterfall left of El Capitan is rarely seen from the valley because of the shape of the cove and tall trees. It's dry by mid-summer.		Late morning clouds drop onto the canyon ridge, the wind picks up and swirls them around the peaks and crags to dramatic effect		Yosemite Falls from the Pohono Trail
The Pohono Trail is even higher than El Capitan		One of the Fissures at Taft Point, dramatically deep narrow crevasses that seem to split the mountain in half	View west of Taft Point high above the Merced River. Taft Point is a little more than a mile from Glacier Point road so this is where you'll have to share the view with others.	After a brief shower and hailstorm, the clouds parted and the sun lit up the valley once again. On the left is El Capitan, at right is Yosemite Falls.
Thunder from Yosemite Falls echoes a mile and a half across the canyon	A light drizzle doesn't keep the crowds away from Sentinel Dome, one of Yosemite's highest and most panoramic viewpoints	View east to Liberty Cap, Nevada Falls and Mt. Starr-King from Sentinel Dome as a storm rolls over east Yosemite Valley		The summit of Halfdome wrapped in low clouds. Sadly, a man died here about the same time as this picture was made. Here's the story I wrote.	More pictures in the Trip Report, top of page

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Since 11.09